Ramp Pesto Pasta w Creamy Shiitake Mushrooms

It’s ramp season baby!

I admit it took me too long to finally start cooking with ramps. They eluded be because they seemed intimidating, so delicate and ephemeral. Their season so fleeting, part of me was like, why bother? I ignore them they’ll be gone soon enough. But when I did, I regretted all the seasons prior I missed them. They’ve been described as a “garlicky leek,” which I guess is accurate. They do have the earthiness of a leek but feel brighter and yes more delicate. Something about them feels they would work really well in Asian dishes, almost like a shiso leaf but that time will come. Today we’re making pesto. And without basil. So is it really a pesto you may ask? Maybe not but it’s delicious so we’re making it. Here I found some young garlic, which are also a bit snooty and elusive of a vegetable so you can sub for a scallion and some regular garlic and the sauce will still come out divine. I don’t use any nuts or seeds or cheese in the sauce because if you whip up olive oil long enough, it become creamy without any of that. The creaminess also comes though cooking down the mushrooms in ghee or butter (but they’ll get creamy just the same with olive oil.) Mix it all together and this truly feels like a spring special at your favorite Italian restaurant that you’ll talk about for years to come.